August 12 - 14, 2012 -- Isle Royale National Park

Continuing on our counterclockwise tour of Isle Royale, we headed up Rock Harbor, past the Rock Harbor Lodge, the island’s only lodging available to visitors.

As we cruised along, we saw a friend passing us on her boat. It was Peg Gail, recently retired Dean of Michigan Technological University’s School of Forestry. Her husband Chris’ family have a life-lease cabin on Tobin Harbor, where we dropped our hook for the night, and we dinghied over to their cabin for a visit. This all-weather harbor has been the site of many summer cabins since the early 1900s, when steamers from Duluth would bring families up for the summer. That evening, Peg and Chris came by rowboat to Monarch for cocktails and more conversation. Such a remote spot, and yet two social engagements!

The next morning, we pulled anchor and headed for Duncan Bay, which is approached through the impossibly skinny Duncan Narrows. Inside, the bay opened up, and we settled in for the night. With the water an unbelievable 70 degrees, we bathed off the swim platform, ogled only by the loons.

Our next stop was Belle Isle, a small island on the north shore of Isle Royale. Here was a sturdy small dock, to which we tied, and a nice picnic area with several rustic campsites.

The centerpiece of the campground is a gazebo with beautiful stone fireplace and barbeque grill.

Nearby are several three-sided lean-to camping shelters, well screened against the bugs. Many campers have kayaks, canoes or rowboats, pulled up on the beach. The site’s volunteer ranger David, who also works during the winter at Everglades National Park in Florida, gave us the history of Belle Isle.

In the early 1900s there was a resort here, complete with dance hall, shuffleboard courts (still visible) and golf course. Cruise ships brought patrons to the island. Right where Jerry is standing, the resort’s advertising was a fake teepee and “Indians” dancing on the bluff to attract business from the passing ships!

From here, we dinghied to Amygdaloid Island, per David’s recommendation, and hiked up the ridge for a great view of the surrounding land. Amygdaloid is a geological term for the small round cavities formed in molten rock by air bubbles, found in much of the rock along this section of Isle Royale.

The path passes through this arch, which was believed to have been excavated by the First Nations Peoples in search of copper.

August 7 - 11, 2012 -- Isle Royale National Park

After some time in Houghton with our friends at Michigan Technological University, we depart under the famed lift bridge for two weeks at Isle Royale.

Our first stop is on the southern shore’s Siskiwit Bay at the Malone Bay Dock. The small dock near the ranger station provided just enough room for Monarch, and we disembarked for a walk on the one-mile nature trail that leads to the inland Siskiwit Lake. The trails on Isle Royale are a pleasure, well-marked and moderate in difficulty.

The Siskiwit River flows in several branches into the bay.

Next day, the predictions were for heavier winds, so we decided to head to the protected harborage of Moskey Basin.

Two days later, when there was room at Caribou Island, we moved to its dock. We still shared the small dock with two powerboats, with fishermen from Houghton.

Caribou Island has nice hiking, and we spent the day doing so. We found a moose carcass along the trail.

Thimbleberries were at their peak, and Jerry displays the fruits of his labors.

A highlight of the trip was our invitation to dine with Isle Royale Park’s superintendent, Phyllis Green and her husband Jay. We know her from our association with Michigan Tech. She has the best cabin on Mott Island, and we got the grand tour.

Phyllis’ sauna decorates the yard.

The next day, we dinghied to Edisen Fishery, an early 1900s family fishing operation nicely restored by the Park.

The Edisen Fishery is the best surviving example of a family gill net fishery complete with a dockside fish house where the catch was cleaned and stored before shipping to Duluth. The fish house had an impressive collection of antique outboards, and net drying reels still sat in the yard. Volunteer staff here are a retired couple who help out here in the summers and volunteer in winters at Everglades National Park in Florida.

One-third mile from the fishery is the Rock Harbor Lighthouse, restored by the Park Service and housing an excellent maritime history exhibit on Isle Royale. We were fascinated by the exhibits of the shipwrecks throughout the island’s history, and the photographs of families who endured extreme hardship to live here year-round.

The lighthouse stairway was wide open for a climb to the top, where the view was stupendous. Next we cruised over to Daisy Farm Dock, where we hiked for an hour along a beautiful trail, working up an appetite.

Our reward was back aboard Monarch, where Marty whipped up an impromptu and recipe-less Thimbleberry Galette, the real fruits of our labor, served warm and alamode.

July 22 - 26, 2012 - Otter Cove to Thunder Bay, Ontario

We departed the next morning, along with Follow and the Swansons, who went into town for provisions and to avoid the flies that descended on CPR Slip last night!

Our stop for the night is Otter Cove on Black Bay Point (this is a different Otter Cove than several days ago – common name here!). This well-protected cove has several anchoring areas, and we selected the one closest to the waterfall that we had heard about from the Swansons. Helgie and other locals had recently cleared a trail here to the falls, so we got in the dinghy to explore. We poled up the shallow stream, hearing the falls in the distance.

And what a beautiful sight it was!

A further vertical path led to the top of the falls, where there are no guardrails and you can peer down into the depths of the cascade.

Next morning, we saw a whitetail deer swimming across the cove right in front of Monarch, and a pair of bald eagles soaring overhead.

On westward, we noted distinctive land formations like the Paps….

….and after a night in Edward Harbor, the signature landmark of the entrance to Thunder Bay, the Sleeping Giant. This formation of erosion-resistant mesas on the Sibley Peninsula lies within the Sleeping Giant Provincial Park.

This high-water lighthouse marks the entrance to the main harbor at Thunder Bay, the largest city on Lake Superior. Within the breakwall lies Prince Arthur’s Landing Marina, with more than 200 slips, walkways and picnic areas.

A beautifully restored train station contrasts with the ultra-modern government building on the waterfront. Open-air concerts are featured here all summer long, and we were entertained by the Bluesbangers, a five-piece band of seasoned blues musicians.

The Marina Park features a fountain designed for cooling off, and on this warm day, there were scores of kids of all ages frolicking in the spray. The park is home to a large display of public art, including giant aluminum water droplets with a reflective mirrored finish.

Another work of art is a pair of bent I-beams, each about 50 feet high, installed with rows of lights; at night, these impart inspirational messages – for those who know Morse Code!

The Pagoda is the oldest operating tourist bureau in Canada, dating to 1909 and still providing travel information to Thunder Bay area tourists. We found literature and got local recommendations, resulting in a fine pickerel dinner at Prospector’s restaurant during our three-night stay at the marina.

We contacted the Thunder Bay Yacht Club, hoping to see it while here. Dock chairman and member Richard Matheson not only welcomed us warmly, but came to pick us up for the 15 minute drive to the facility and a complete tour. Later, he and friend Janice, and another Club couple, Phyllis and Jim joined us aboard Monarch for conversation about the Great Loop, which they had completed.