Continuing on our counterclockwise tour of Isle Royale, we headed up Rock Harbor, past the Rock Harbor Lodge, the island’s only lodging available to visitors.
As we cruised along, we saw a friend passing us on her boat. It was Peg Gail, recently retired Dean of Michigan Technological University’s School of Forestry. Her husband Chris’ family have a life-lease cabin on Tobin Harbor, where we dropped our hook for the night, and we dinghied over to their cabin for a visit. This all-weather harbor has been the site of many summer cabins since the early 1900s, when steamers from Duluth would bring families up for the summer. That evening, Peg and Chris came by rowboat to Monarch for cocktails and more conversation. Such a remote spot, and yet two social engagements!
The next morning, we pulled anchor and headed for Duncan Bay, which is approached through the impossibly skinny Duncan Narrows. Inside, the bay opened up, and we settled in for the night. With the water an unbelievable 70 degrees, we bathed off the swim platform, ogled only by the loons.
Our next stop was Belle Isle, a small island on the north shore of Isle Royale. Here was a sturdy small dock, to which we tied, and a nice picnic area with several rustic campsites.
The centerpiece of the campground is a gazebo with beautiful stone fireplace and barbeque grill.
Nearby are several three-sided lean-to camping shelters, well screened against the bugs. Many campers have kayaks, canoes or rowboats, pulled up on the beach. The site’s volunteer ranger David, who also works during the winter at Everglades National Park in Florida, gave us the history of Belle Isle.
In the early 1900s there was a resort here, complete with dance hall, shuffleboard courts (still visible) and golf course. Cruise ships brought patrons to the island. Right where Jerry is standing, the resort’s advertising was a fake teepee and “Indians” dancing on the bluff to attract business from the passing ships!
From here, we dinghied to Amygdaloid Island, per David’s recommendation, and hiked up the ridge for a great view of the surrounding land. Amygdaloid is a geological term for the small round cavities formed in molten rock by air bubbles, found in much of the rock along this section of Isle Royale.
The path passes through this arch, which was believed to have been excavated by the First Nations Peoples in search of copper.
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